One of the joys of Stockholm is that it is full of water and green space. Combining both is the island of Djurgården, which contains (as its name would suggest) Stockholm’s zoo.
Ah, but it’s so much more than a zoo.
Yes, it contains small but pretty naturalistic enclosures for many native species, including Wolves, Brown Bears, Moose, Reindeer and European Bison. But it also contains many typical historic buildings, either specially constructed in reproduction or disassembled, transported and rebuilt on-site. UK visitors may be getting the sense of Ironbridge or Beamish, and that’s about right, but going back to pre-industrial times too.
The peak season for this is summer, but on Christmas Eve, it’s open for free, which makes for quite a lovely family afternoon out and as it’s on a hill, it wears out the little legs and ensures a good night’s sleep awaiting Santa.
Never mind a meeting place, this is a kissing place.
So how did Protestant (at most, Atheist in closer reality) Sweden get obsessed with an Italian Catholic saint? I don’t know the history, but I’m sure it’s related to the closeness between Lucia and the Swedish for light: ljus, making it a perfect excuse to celebrate light in the darkest time of the year.
Either way, it’s a set of traditions that is almost impossible to escape. Everywhere are groups of white-clad, singing young women with candles. Everywhere you go, you are force-fed lusekätter: saffron buns shaped like cats tails. By the end of Friday, I was quite lightheaded from Saffron overdose, having had them pushed on me:
Lussebullar Recipe. Note that 1) if you’re doing individual buns, about 90g of dough is fine, and you want to bake for about 10mins at 210C 2) Yeast is fresh yeast, which comes in 50g blocks in Sweden 3) Grahams Flour is wholemeal bread flour, for extra olde-worlde texture
Compulsory Lussebullar (and coffee, but that goes without saying) being served at reception, Friday 12th December.
Freshly baked lussekätter
In addition, processional choirs of young women with candles are prevalent. I had one in reception at the office, and Lucy (revelling in the day as you can imagine) had one at SFI. And there was an internal school one before classes on Friday – apparently to be repeated for parents next Friday
You even get them in Shopping Centres:
And almost every window in the city has an arch of lights shining out. All we need now is some snow for them to glitter off. Continue reading St Lucy’s Day→
Our family has been obsessively following the situation of the Gävle Goat (‘Goat’ is ‘Get’ in Swedish, and like all Gs followed by soft vowels like E, is roughly pronounced “Yevle Yet”).
It’s a thing both pitiful and hilarious: a huge straw goat erected every Advent in the major town square, but for many years has been torched, presumably as a witty student jape. Some cities have statues to add traffic cones to as their major drunken student temptation, Gävle has a huge flammable goat.
The history is truly awful, reading like an extended version of Swamp Castle.
Burnt on New Year’s Eve
Burnt, only six hours after it was assembled.
Sabotaged & collapsed
Hit by a car.
Kicked to pieces.
Burnt even before it was erected. A new one was built and fireproofed. It was destroyed and broken into pieces.
Burnt on Christmas Eve.
The legs were destroyed.
Burnt down on 12 December
Enclosed by a 2 metres high metal fence, guarded by Securitas and soldiers from the Gävle I 14 Infantry Regiment. Burnt down in January.
Two goats were built, the Southern Merchants’ and the School of Vasa’s. The bigger goat burnt down the night before Christmas Eve.
A heavily fireproofed goat was built. Burnt down a week before Christmas.
Again, the goat burnt down before it was assembled. Financial contributions from the public were raised to rebuild a goat that was burnt down in January.
Burnt down on Christmas Eve.
The goat was burnt down eight days after it was built. Rebuilt, but burned down on 20 December.
A Norwegian was arrested for attempting to burn down the goat. Burnt down on the morning of Christmas Day.
Damaged by fireworks.
Burnt down on 11 December, even though there was a major blizzard.
Burnt down only a couple of hours after it was erected.
Burnt down a couple of days before New Year’s Eve.
Set on fire on 23 December
Burnt down on 12 December.
Burnt 21 December
Burnt by unknown vandals reportedly dressed as Santa and the gingerbread man, by shooting a flaming arrow at the goat at 21:00 on 3 December.
On the night of 15 December at 03:00, someone tried to set fire to the goat by dousing the right front leg in petrol.
On 26 December there was an attempt to burn down the Goat but patriotic passers-by managed to extinguish the fire. The following day the goat finally succumbed to the flames ignited by an unknown assailant at 03:50 CET.
A person attempted to set the goat on fire the night of 7 December. On the night of 23 December before 04:00 the goat was set on fire and was burned to the frame, even though it had a thick layer of snow on its back. The goat had two online webcams which were put out of service by a DoS attack, instigated by computer hackers just before the burning.
One of the guards tasked with protecting the goat offered payment to leave his post so that the goat could be stolen via helicopter
This year, the town was determined that it should survive. So they moved it to be right next to the taxi rank, put a webcam on it (despite 2009’s experience) and set up a Twitter account to proclaim its ongoing survival, greeting the dawn of each new day of life.
Investigative report: my late night visitors turned out to be own security team on watch patrol while I was asleep. Puh!
In our house, we’re getting really quite obsessed. Lucy has the webcam open in a constant browser tab and checks many times a day. And we do a daily report at breakfast.
We decided it needed a name, rather than just being “The Gävle Goat”. And I did my usual Eddie Izzard thing and plumped for “Geoff”. Because “Geoff the Gävle Goat” or “Yeff the Yevle Yet” is just funny.